- 3, 1"x10"x10' whitewood boards from Lowes (had them cut to 56" so I ended up with 6 boards and only used 5 for the planked part of my headboard)
- 1, 1"x6"x12' whitewood board (had this cut in half to hold the planks together and act as legs to hold the headboard up)
- 1 1/4" screws
- measuring tape
My dad was my building buddy on this project, but I could have easily done it myself (this isn't difficult). Since I got the boards cut when I purchased them from Lowes all my dad and I had to do was line them up and screw them together. Before actually screwing the pieces together, I picked the 5, 10" boards I liked best and arranged them in an order from my favorite to least favorite. I did this so that the boards I liked the least were at the bottom of the headboard and would be covered by pillows. (In the picture below the boards are arranged in the order I liked, and numbered on the back)here, here and here). The horizontal lines of tape you see I put down to mark the 11.2" of the design I was working with. It also made it easy for me to make marks with a sharpie directly onto the tape. People in my family do not understand what I did to tape it and thought I was doing it wrong the whole time, so if the photo confuses you, ignore it. haha! I'm the one who did it and it looks confusing! I just made sure to measure out each diamond but to also measure the distance from each line and point to others around it so I knew my tape was in the right place. *The picture below just shows the white diamond taped out, after taking the picture I taped off all parts of the wood that were not being painted white since I always get paint splatter when I'm painting. I definitely recommend covering the other parts!*
I have a really great trick for getting clean, crisp lines when painting designs, if you want to know how to save yourself frustration you can read about it here.
For paint I went with a pure white paint. I wanted something crisp and didn't like the dullness of the UO headboard, so I used General Finishes Snow White milk paint which I had on hand. Here's just one coat of paint on the headboard. It ended up needing 4 coats of white to get full coverage and not see wood showing through. On the 4th coat of paint I only let the paint dry for about 10 minutes before pulling all of the tape off. By the time I finished painting the top row of diamonds, I could pull off the tape on the bottom row.
Before starting on the coral part of the design I let the white paint dry for 48 hours. 24 is long enough, but I went on a trip to visit my sister. The reason I waited that long was because in order to tape the next part, the tape went over the freshly painted white diamonds and I wanted to make sure none of the paint would pull off and stick to the tape.Taping this part was much easier because I did not really have to measure many parts. I just tape over where the edges of the white diamonds and connected the points. The only places I did need to measure were on the vert top and bottom rows where the design goes off of the wood.
For paint I used General Finishes again. I wanted a pretty coral salmon color so I made a custom mix using Coral Crush, Persimmon and a small amount of Seagull Grey.
Once all of the sections that were to be painted coral were taped off I used some paper I had to cover up everything else that was not being painted coral. I didn't want any spatter or drips on any other part of the headboard. I don't have a great picture of this part because we were have rain and thunderstorms, so this is a garage photo with bad lighting.
The coral covered much better than the white paint and because I'm such an indecisive person I only used 2 coats of the coral color. If I ever want to change the coral accent color to a different color, I can easily tape off those sections and paint right over. For that reason I also chose not to seal the piece with a coat of water based poly. The wood areas do have sealer since I put 2 coats on before painting. The good thing is, General Finishes paint does not necessarily require a sealer when used on pieces that do not receive high traffic. I may choose to seal it down the line, and if I do, I will use General Finishes HP topcoat in Flat.
For now, I just added felt pads to the back of it and leaned it against the wall. I did the same thing with my last headboard. My bed is pushed up against it and it can't fall on me, so don't freak out about that 😉 Now, let's talk about cost.
- Three 1"x10"x10' for the planked front ($18.04 each from Lowes): $54.12 (I only used 5 of the 6 boards)
- One 1"x6"x12' for the legs (from Lowes): $12.38
- Pack of 1-1/4in wood screw (from Home Depot): $1.99
- Stain (GF gel stain in 'Antique Walnut' and Minwax in 'Ipswich Pine'): $0 (already owned)
- General Finishes HP topcoat in flat: $0 (already owned)
- General Finishes 'Snow White' milk paint: $0 (already owned)
- General Finishes 'Coral Crush', 'Persimmon', and 'Seagull Grey' milk paint: $0 (already owned)
- ScotchBlue Delicate Surface Painters Tape: $0 (already owned)
- Total Spent: $68.49
This project ended up being really inexpensive for me because I already owned most of the supplies. I only needed to buy the wood and screws. You could definitely do this project for under $100. You don't need a lot of paint so sample sizes or pints work!
Here are photos of the headboard all finished! (If you want to read the post on the glossy black campaign chest, click here.)
And a comparison of mine and Urban Outfitter's headboard